Wednesday, January 19, 2011
Moon is the nearest celestial body to Earth. Almost every night we can watch this thing, and perhaps never tried mengabadikannya. Nevertheless photographing the Moon is not as easy to see. Here's a guide photographing the Moon with a focus on the portion of light and speed.
In photography, the portion of the raw light based on the brightness of the sun rays. Classical benchmark commonly called "Sunny 16 rule". The benchmark game (rule of thumb) about sound, use 1/ASA-film speed (seconds) on the width of the diaphragm 1 / 16 at noon. Usually these rules are included in the packaging film.
Suppose we use sepeka film ASA 100 then we should set a speed of 1 / 100 second (in practice usually 1 / 125 second) on the width of the diaphragm 1 / 16. If we open the diaphragm eighth (twice as wide as 1 / 16) then the speed increases both times to get the proper lighting (1 / 500 sec). If we use 400 ASA film, the reference speed shutter 1 / 400 sec (1 / 500 seconds in practice) on the width of the diaphragm 1 / 16 to get a fair share of light.
Moon is a satellite of Earth, a distance nearly equal to the Sun. Therefore, the logic of "Sunny 16 rule" applies here as well with a few additional rules.
Additional rules arise because the black moon sky background so that the 'cheat' light sensor lenses. In the lens under long dot-fire 500 mm, light from the surface of the Moon is difficult accurately measured through the camera light sensor (light meter). Usually the photographer to reproduce the portion of light 100 percent for the right lighting. So the rules about to be: we should use 1/ASA-film (seconds) at the opening of the diaphragm 1 / 11 when photographing the Moon.
Suppose we use sepeka film ASA 100 then we should set a shutter speed of 1 / 125 on the diaphragm 1 / 11. If we open the aperture 1 / 16 (half of 1 / 11) then the speed dropped to 100 percent (1 / 60 sec). If we use 400 ASA film, the reference speed shutter 1 / 400 sec (1 / 500 seconds in practice) on the width of the diaphragm 1 / 11.
Rule applies when the full moon. The smaller the surface area of the Moon is visible then we need to increase the portion of light entering into the film. Common benchmark is a 100 percent increase in accordance perbani moon light.
In the new-moon phase, the portion of light require approximately an additional 4-5 times as much as a full moon. When we photographed the crescent moon with equal sensitivity film ASA 400, the reference shutter speed roughly a 1 / 500 second at the diaphragm width 1 / 4 or it could also speed of 1 / 60 - 1 / 30 sec with a width of the diaphragm 1 / 11.
When we photographed the crescent moon with equal sensitivity film ASA 100, the reference shutter speed roughly a 1 / 100 sec with a width of the diaphragm 1 / 4 or it could also speed of 1 / 15 sec with a width of the diaphragm 1 / 11.
This count is only a reference in the field, especially when using wide lenses (wider than 35 mm). In practice more often portions of light have to be enlarged when the situation is cloudy, full of light pollution, or the position of the Moon was near horizon. Light meter in a new camera is adequate only when shooting using a long lens (especially longer than 200 mm).
Light is not the only problem in shooting the moon. Shutter speed is too slow on the motion of the Moon (relative to the lens) will blur the image of the Moon. The deciding factor to overcome this problem lies in the point-fire a long lens.
Month shifted half-arc degrees after two minutes of the lens and the camera did not flinch. This shift is more noticeable as the point-fire a long lens was used. At approximately the length of the point-fire 50 mm, we can open the shutter to 10 seconds before the image of the Moon visible tail. In the long-fire point of 200 mm lens at best opportunity slipped 2-4 seconds. At length the point-fire 300 mm lens, the chance at best 2 seconds.
source : http://***.focusnusantara.com/articles/memotret_gerhana_bulan.php
by Yadi Yasin
Maybe these tips are there that seem ancient, oldies and less "revolutionized" but maybe this is the basic tips that can be used at all times, especially for those who want to start studying landscape Photography.
From the tips below will also mention some other things, such as the Rule of the Third, Hyperfocal distance, etc. are only briefly described krn could become a topic of its own.
1. Maximize Depth of Field (DoF)
An approach to the normal concept of a landscape photography is "sharply from toe to the end of horizon". The basic concept of the theory of "oldies" We agreed that an appropriate landscape as much as possible all parts of the photo is the focus (sharp). To get the sharpness wide or with other words the field of depth of focus (DOF) which selebar2nya, can use apperture (aperture diaphragm) is as small as possible (large f number), for example F14, F16, f18, F22, f32, etc..
Of course, with increasingly smaller apperture, meaning the length of exposure.
Because of the limitations of the lens (which is not able to reach f32 and / or f64) orspot position where we stand do not support, a different approach can be used,namely the theory of hyper-focal areas of focus to get the "optimal" in accordance withour scene face. The core of the hyper-focal distance is to put the focus point in the right position to get the focus area which the widest possible so it will be sharplydistinguished from the FG to the BG.
With a wide DoF, due to the use and application of hyper-f/20 focal distance todetermine focus